Fongo Community Forums

Posted: **10/11/2020**

It stopped working again, I just switched back the option from WAN to LAN and I'll wait a couple days see if it work... My router is about 10 years old so maybe by using old ATA settings it would work better together... If not, my friend gave me a broken ASUS RT-AC3100 router. (I tried repairing it about a month ago during many hours, there is nothing to do, the 2.4ghz wifi is completely dead and I have nothing to try the 5 GHZ. I don't have a cellphone so it isn't the end of the world not having the wifi [for now...]). My friend was mad, buying this 350$ and broke in no time... He had to buy another one lol...

Posted: **10/12/2020**

destrock wrote:It stopped working again, I just switched back the option from WAN to LAN

In your ATA, SIP REGISTER Contact Header Uses should be set to WAN address.

That setting ensures the RTP (Real-time Transport Protocol) audio stream from Freephoneline reaches your modem.
That setting has nothing to do with you not being able to access your ATA.

When Freephoneline's RTP audio data (from outside your home) is sent to you, it has to send the data to your modem first, which means data (from the internet) must be sent first your public WAN IP.
When SIP REGISTER Contact Header Uses is set to WAN address, when using Freephoneline, RTP audio is more likely to be sent properly to your WAN IP address. That is what you want. That is what every FPL user wants.

Your router's job is to route or direct the RTP audio stream to the private LAN IP of your ATA.

When you try to access your ATA from home, you need to use the LAN IP of the ATA to log in. That has nothing to do with Freephoneline or anything on the internet.
That also has nothing to do with the "SIP REGISTER Contact Header Uses" setting.

Posted: **10/19/2020**

ok guys I finally plugged the Asus RT-AC3100 router. It took me 3 hours setting it up !!! Fucking shity router bugging everywhere that we have to always hard reset !!! I think it work well right now... I think...

Ok so I have not read that whole thread again, maybe I will in the future but not today omg... We can switch the language of that router very easily so I have been able to put it in english and check some of the settings you guys were talking about. This is much easier on the same language lol.

My phone probably work right now but I call nobody, it's midnight... Maybe everything is already fine with this router but :

Do I enable the NAT ?
https://imgur.com/a/8kEQyFT

Someone here talked about the ALG, do I have to change an option ?
https://imgur.com/a/aFMkTDX

At the bottom, is this how we add a static ip address ? I'm not sure... If it's indeed how we do it with this router, it was too easy lol (just push the left mouse button twice).
https://imgur.com/a/QSF9M5J

I made a QOS option for 100/30 computer and 10/5 ATA mbps MAX. (I tried just adding the computer only at 100/30 and I had to do a hard reset...)

Posted: **10/20/2020**

destrock wrote:ok guys I finally plugged the Asus RT-AC3100 router.

Switch to Asuswrt-Merlin firmware: https://www.asuswrt-merlin.net/.
Download from https://sourceforge.net/projects/asuswr ... 0/Release/
I do not accept responsibility for failed firmware updates nor wrecked routers.

Installation instructions are here: https://github.com/RMerl/asuswrt-merlin ... stallation.

Someone's install guide can be found here: https://techcyn.com/guides/asus-merlin- ... -firmware/.

Do I enable the NAT ?

Yes, and it is by default.

Someone here talked about the ALG, do I have to change an option ?

SIP ALG in Asus routers in called SIP Passthrough.

It's found under advanced settings-->WAN-->NAT Passthrough.

In Asus router firmware, having SIP Passthrough enabled is okay with Freephoneline.

When using Merlin, set SIP Passthrough to "Enabled + NAT Helper".

At the bottom, is this how we add a static ip address ?

Yes

I made a QOS option

After installing Merlin router firmware, if you have the Bandwidth Monitor tab (found under Adaptive QoS), just enable it.
1. Turn App analysis on
2. Drag highest priority (red) icon on top of your ATA.
3. Set all other devices (computer) to a lower priority.
4. Click apply.
5. Enable Traditional QoS

Newer Asus routers have the Bandwidth Monitor feature. I'm not sure if yours does.

Posted: **10/21/2020**

I will not use merlin the interface coming with this router is very nice and my settings are done already.

I just made a video showing you my QoS options. As you can see, I did not want to use the automatic mode because there is no ATA option in the list so I did not knew which one to pick...

http://www.filedropper.com/2020-10-2113-39-17

Posted: **10/21/2020**

Merlin has more features, has a similar interface to Asus stock firmware, and without Merlin, you can't adjust Unreplied and Assured UDP timeouts (point #4 from http://forum.fongo.com/viewtopic.php?f= ... 942#p78059).
Switching to Merlin doesn't erase your settings. Merlin is better for Freephoneline than Asus stock firmware.

I told you to also use Bandwidth Monitor.

Anyway, do what you want.

Posted: **10/22/2020**

ok I tried the dd-wrt or open wrt I don't remember, 1 month ago (when I tried repairing that broken asus router my friend gave me) and I switched back to the official 5 min after because I hated the interface too much. I just watched that video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XykUML3T2VA and the guy said he had a dead 2.4 ghz that worked fine on merlin and this is exactly the problem I have right now and the merlin interface is the same as the official so you convinced me to try it. If I repair that 2.4 ghz I'll laugh extremely hard in the face of my friend

Posted: **10/22/2020**

2.4ghz might be defective.

But this is worth trying:

a) In your router, navigate to Advanced Settings-->Wireless-->General

1. I use separate SSID (Network) names for 2.4 Ghz and 5Ghz. Use separate names to avoid confusion when troubleshooting. If SSID names are the same for 2.4 and 5Ghz, you can't tell just by looking, which one you're connected to. Change SSID names so that 2.4 and 5Ghz are not using the same network name.

2. Turn "Enable Smart Connect" off. Disable Smart Connect.

3. I use inSSIDer to try to use a control channel (and extension channel) that isn't being used by others in my area: https://www.metageek.com/products/inssider/.

a)Navigate to Advanced Settings-->Wireless-->General
b) Select 2.4 Ghz.

c) I do not use Auto for control channel. I try to find a channel that isn't overcrowded where I live. You should do the same.

d) 20Mhz channel bandwidth is more stable than 40Mhz. 20Mhz is slower, but it is more stable. If you have problems, select 20.

e) Click "apply"

4. In the Professional tab-->Band, select 2.4 Ghz

a) Bluetooth Coexistence-->Enable
b) Roaming Assistant-->Disable
c) Airtime Fairness-->Disable
d) Universal Beamforming-->Disable
e) I have Multi-User MIMO enabled, but if you have problems, try disabling it.
f) click "apply"

http://www.snbforums.com/threads/guide- ... ost-375354

RMerlin wrote:
Quick addendum, as I lack the time to maintain the original post:

In newer routers, if you experience wireless stability issues then it's recommended that you disable the following options:

MU-MIMO (some hardware revisions have non-functional/unreliable implementations)
Airtime Fairness (causes connectivity issues for various devices, including wireless printers)
Universal Beamforming (non-standard, might cause compatibility issues with some clients)

http://www.snbforums.com/threads/guide- ... ues.12825/

RMerlin wrote:
General tips (applies to both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz)

- Make sure your computer's wireless driver is up-to-date. Check with the manufacturer's website, as Windows Update does not always carry the latest version (in fact, it rarely does). I've personally seen old Atheros drivers that would refuse to connect to any modern router, but worked fine with some older routers.

- Use a tool such as InSSIDer (Windows) or Wifi Analyzer (Android) to determine which channel is the least busy, then set your router to that channel. Keep in mind that a 2.4 GHz wifi channel will interfere with both neighbouring channels. So if you set it to channel 3, it can be affected by anything also using channel 2 and 4. If your neighbour is on channel 1, then he will also interfere with channel 2. That's why it's usually best to stick with channel 1, 6 or 11, as anything between these will most likely interfere with two other used channels.

- Try deleting the wireless profile from your device, and reconnecting as if it was a new connection. The device tend to save more technical details than just the SSID and encryption, so sometimes that information can be out of sync with what the router is using.

- If you had just upgraded the router firmware, try resetting your router back to factory defaults, and reconfigure it manually. Do NOT load a backup of your saved settings, as this will make the whole procedure pointless - you will just end up reloading the exact same incorrect settings you want to get rid of.

- Router (and antennas) positioning can be important. Picture an imaginary direct line of sight between the router and the client device, and observe what obstacles it has to go through. Each obstacle can affect the radio signal.
Going through a wall at a 45 degrees angle will also be worse than at a 90 degrees angle, as it means more surface for the signal to travel through.

- Increasing the output power rarely helps, unless you were also able to increase the output power of your client devices. If you really need better coverage, upgrade your antennas. And actually cranking the output power too high can cause more issues than anything if you reach a point where the signal gets distorted by the emitter.

- A 300 Mbps link does not translate in 300 Mbps speed. That's the link speed itself. After that, you have to take into account the encryption, other devices sharing the same channel, retransmission of lost/corrupted packets, etc... Anything around half the link speed is considered good.

- The link speed can also vary based on power management. It's not unusual for the link speed to drop to a lower value, then rise back up as you are actively transferring data. If evaluating performance, do not look at the link speed alone - do an actual transfer and measure the throughput. Timed file copy or an online speed test with a known good test server are good ways to do so.

- Sometimes, some wireless adapters just won't like your router. That can happen with older laptop wireless interfaces, or some specific vendors. If it's practical, consider possibly using a different wireless adapter (USB-based, for example). A 300 Mbps adapter is fairly inexpensive these days - cheaper than switching to a different router (for example, switching to a Ralink-based router instead of a Broadcom-based one).

Issues specific to 2.4 GHz:

The 2.4 GHz band is VERY crowded. You can get interference from a wide variety of devices:

Microwave ovens
Baby monitors
Old cordless phones
Bluetooth devices
All your neighbour's routers

Due to this, you should set channel width to 20 MHz on that band. A 40 MHz connection would require you to overlap no less than 5 channels. Highly unlikely you will get a reliable 40 MHz connection in any urban area with so many channels overlapping. Yes, it will cut your maximum performance in half, but if you want a STABLE connection on the 2.4 GHz band, there is little you can do about this. Otherwise, the 5 GHz band is your only solution.

Posted: **10/22/2020**

There is no mac address so this is useless to change the options (I did change some of them but not all). if there is no mac address and no channels as for the 5 ghz, I think there is nothing to do. This is dead.

I modified my QoS options. I took the time to read carefully and voip was in the "work-from-home" category. This is now automatic as showed priority. https://imgur.com/a/Za9LflD

edit : ok now I'm confused about the http://forum.fongo.com/viewtopic.php?f= ... 942#p78059

1. Is this fine ? https://imgur.com/a/3YPWhfM

2. I don't know if it's buggy I want to stop rebooting the router during a whole 1-2 weeks see if it's working correctly...

3. done

4. I have no idea where these options are hidden in the router... This is the only udp option I found : https://imgur.com/a/RX7X0uv The SIP : https://imgur.com/a/hWbog0f

You can increase SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in your ATA from 120 seconds to 185 seconds in your ATA without hurting anything, but UDP Unreplied Timeout in your router (which you cannot change) is likely greater than SIP OPTIONS Keep Alive Interval in your ATA, which you cannot safely change.

I'm about to switch back to 120 since I'm now on another router supposedly working better... edit : This is written default is 20, can't we use 20 with free phone line ?

Posted: **10/22/2020**

destrock wrote:There is no mac address so this is useless to change the options

For what? MAC address has nothing to do with Wi-Fi radios.

I modified my QoS options. I took the time to read carefully and voip was in the "work-from-home" category. This is now automatic as showed priority. https://imgur.com/a/Za9LflD

I told you to use Bandwidth Monitor (with Traditional QoS).

1. Is this fine ? https://imgur.com/a/3YPWhfM

Yes

I have no idea where these options are hidden in the router... This is the only udp option I found : https://imgur.com/a/RX7X0uv The SIP : https://imgur.com/a/hWbog0f

General-->Tools-->Other Settings-->TCP/IP settings

UDP Timeout: Assured-->180 (default)
UDP Timeout: Unreplied-->15

In your ATA, SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time: 185 seconds
(leave second value at default)

This is written default is 20, can't we use 20 with free phone line ?

SIP OPTIONS Keep Alive Interval should be 20 seconds

UDP Unreplied Timeout (in your router) < NAT Keep-alive Interval (in your ATA; for Obihai ATAs this is X_KeepAliveExpires; for Grandstream, the setting is SIP OPTIONS Keep Alive Interval) < UDP Assured Timeout (in your router) < SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time (or RegisterRetryInterval in Obihai ATAs)

< means less than

15 < 20 < 180 < 185 (I use this because I have some smart home devices that seem to require a longer Assured UDP timeout)

or

15 unreplied UDP timeout in router < 20 SIP OPTIONS Keep Alive Interval in ATA < change Assured UDP timeout in router to 115 seconds < change SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in ATA to 120 seconds

Posted: **10/26/2020**

Oh, I was unable to access my ATA settings, so something was wrong...

I told you not to use only that. I told you to use Bandwidth Monitor as well

A monitor do exactly what it say it does, it monitor... This is only an option for helping you find the speed of your Internet connection...

DP Unreplied Timeout (in your router) < NAT Keep-alive Interval (in your ATA; for Obihai ATAs this is X_KeepAliveExpires; for Grandstream, the setting is SIP OPTIONS Keep Alive Interval) < UDP Assured Timeout (in your router) < SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time (or RegisterRetryInterval in Obihai ATAs)

< means less than

18 < 20 < 180 < 185 (I use this because I have some smart home devices that seem to require a longer Assured UDP timeout)

or

18 unreplied UDP timeout in router < 20 SIP OPTIONS Keep Alive Interval in ATA < change Assured UDP timeout in router to 118 seconds < change SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in ATA to 120 seconds

I have no "<" options...

change SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in ATA to 120 seconds

You ask me to make it 180, then 120. Should I make an average of the 2 and make it 150 lol ? I made it 120...

ATA : https://imgur.com/a/wmkYguj

Router : https://imgur.com/a/mCvectZ

Posted: **10/26/2020**

destrock wrote:Oh, I was unable to access my ATA settings, so something was wrong

I would submit a ticket to Grandstream for advice: https://helpdesk.grandstream.com/.

You should never lose access to your ATA in the manner that you are describing.
Adjusting QoS and UDP timeout settings will not fix that problem.

You might want to check for faulty ethernet cables. Try a different cable.

This is only an option for helping you find the speed of your Internet connection.

I use Asuswrt-Merlin.
https://www.asus.com/ca-en/support/FAQ/1008717/

"How to set up Bandwidth monitor

1. Drop and drag operation allows for device priority setting. The user can drop and drag priority tag on the device icon to assign a priority level. Click the level you want to set for your device and drag it to your device."

That's a form of QoS.

You should drag "highest" onto your ATA. And you should drag lower priorities onto all other devices, including your computer.
You should save router settings. Click "Apply".
Then you should remove all other QoS settings that you've enabled. Click "Apply".

Apparently, Bandwidth Monitor only works properly (at the time of this post) with Traditional QoS enabled.
Traditional QoS doesn't support NAT Acceleration.

I have no "<" options...

Of course you don't.

"<" means "less than".

It's a condition that needs to be met.

UDP Unreplied Timeout (in your router) < NAT Keep-alive Interval (in your ATA; for Obihai ATAs this is X_KeepAliveExpires; for Grandstream, the setting is SIP OPTIONS Keep Alive Interval) < UDP Assured Timeout (in your router) < SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time (or RegisterRetryInterval in Obihai ATAs)

18 (UDP Unreplied timeout in your router) IS LESS THAN 20 (SIP OPTIONS Keep Alive Interval in your ATA) IS LESS THAN 180 (UDP Assured Timeout in your router) IS LESS THAN 185 (SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in your ATA)

You ask me to make it 180

No, I said 180 seconds is default value for the Assured UDP Timeout in your router, which needs to be less than SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in your ATA. Some Smart Home devices, such as Chamberlan MyQ Garage Door openers, may require 180s for the UDP Assured Timeout value. Overall, most devices work fine with a smaller Assured UDP timeout.

FPL recommends using 120 seconds for SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in your ATA, but in terms of FPL, that value can be higher than 120 seconds without hurting anything. SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in your ATA just shouldn't be less than 120 seconds.

So, if you don't want to change the default Assured UDP timeout value in your router, you can increase SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in your ATA to 185, which would satisfy UDP Assured Timeout in your router needing to be less than SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in your ATA.

If you want to use 120 seconds for SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in your ATA, then change UDP Assured timeout in your router to 115.

I find that I am unable to assist you further. I hope you are able to resolve whatever problems you have.

Posted: **10/26/2020**

https://imgur.com/a/XNueQqk

I have nothing to drag there...

Posted: **10/26/2020**

destrock wrote: I have nothing to drag there...

I have no idea why.
Something is wrong.
All of my connected devices that are turned on are listed.

You can ask for further help at https://www.snbforums.com/forums/asuswrt-merlin.42/

Also, if your ATA is constantly losing connection, you might want to try a different ethernet cable. The one you're using may be defective.
Check your internet LED on the ATA.
Refer to pages 19 and 20 of your user manual for an explanation of LED patterns: http://www.grandstream.com/sites/defaul ... _guide.pdf.
Similarly, check the LED on your router where the ATA is connected when you can no longer access the ATA.

Posted: **10/28/2020**

Also, if your ATA is constantly losing connection, you might want to try a different ethernet cable. The one you're using may be defective.
Check your internet LED on the ATA.
Refer to pages 19 and 20 of your user manual for an explanation of LED patterns: http://www.grandstream.com/sites/defaul ... _guide.pdf.
Similarly, check the LED on your router where the ATA is connected when you can no longer access the ATA.

I will check tomorrow, it's always failing during the night... Cause, yeah, it failed again... If I remember right, the 3 blue lights stay on and doesn't flash. I'll probably have to contact grandstream...

Posted: **10/30/2020**

It didn't fail today lol...

But I have another little problem. With the apps. I installed it, along java 32 bits, the apps start but I always have a "wrong username or password". Any tips ? The vpn is closed and I had no firewall alert to allow...

Posted: **10/30/2020**

destrock wrote: With the apps. I installed it, along java 32 bits

Which app?

Freephoneline desktop app for PC?

The username and password are the same ones you use to login at https://www.freephoneline.ca/login.

By the way, only one registration per FPL account is allowed at any time. When there are multiple devices/softphones using the same account, only the most recent registration is valid. The previously registered device will lose registration and incoming calls will not work on it. In other words, incoming calls will not work on both devices at the same time using the same Freephoneline account. Registration is required for incoming calls but not for outgoing calls.

Posted: **10/30/2020**

yes, theFreephoneline desktop app for PC

OK it failed today.

I opened the grandstream pdf. The option ***01 was probably on DHCP mode. I switched, I think, on the static ip.
Then, I did the ***02 and this is telling me 192.168.0.160

In my router, I have the grandstream set at 192.168.1.226

Is it normal ? Why are they not the same ip !? My router detect "offline" my computer ip and the grandstream ip. The grandstream is at 192.168.1.226 (and why in the offline btw ? I can use both my computer and the phone right now, why isn't it listed in online ?)

I just tried adding grandstream 192.168.0.160 in my router but this is telling me "192.168.0.160 is not a valid ip address!" wtf..............

I also tried a ***02 192.168.1.226 but nothing special happened. I don't know if I have to reboot the ata...

I'm pretty sure the ***04 and ***05 had my router ip which is 192.168.1.1 but now this is 0.0.0.0 for both

Posted: **10/30/2020**

destrock wrote:
I opened the grandstream pdf. The option ***01 was probably on DHCP mode. I switched, I think, on the static ip.

The Grandstream ATA should be using DHCP mode. Your Asus router should be assigning LAN IP to your ATA. Do not assign an IP yourself manually in the ATA.
Do not assign an IP yourself manually for your PC either in Windows network properties. Do not connect via Wi-Fi to the device your ISP issued either.

1. a) What brand and model modem are you using?

b) If your ISP gave you a modem/router combo, gateway, or hub, ensure that it is in bridge mode. Also, disable Wi-Fi in that device if it also contains a router. Contact your ISP if you need to.
You want the device your ISP gave you to behave as a modem only. To do that the device needs to be in bridge mode if it also contains router features.

2. Connect your Asus router to the device your ISP gave you.

3. Connect your ATA and PC to the Asus router only.

4. a) Login to your ATA.
b) Navigate to Basic Settings-->IP Address.
c) Select "dynamically assigned via DHCP".
d) click "apply"

Is it normal ?

No.

It's also not normal to see nothing in Bandwidth Monitor.

Posted: **10/31/2020**

1. a) What brand and model modem are you using?

Asus RT-AC3100 with latest firmware and latest merlin firmware. The other I was using in the first place was that one : https://eu.dlink.com/fr/fr/products/dir ... bit-router

My isp gave me a modem only. The ata is brought on Amazon.

I changed back the ata option on DHCP and on the web interface, this is what I have : https://imgur.com/a/1xEVIok Why the "DHCP vendor class ID: HT8XX" ? And why not using a static ip on the 192.168.1.226 ?

I just learned we could put videos on imgur

I uploaded the wrong file and it worked lol !

Posted: **10/31/2020**

destrock wrote:
Asus RT-AC3100 with latest firmware and latest merlin firmware.

That is not a modem. That is a router.

Posted: **10/31/2020**

destrock wrote:Why the "DHCP vendor class ID: HT8XX" ?

That's the Grandstream ATA series. It doesn't matter what's listed there.

And why not using a static ip on the 192.168.1.226 ?

Your router assigns the static IP address for your ATA if the router is configured properly. Don't specify one in the ATA.

Don’t enable multiple DHCP servers.

Posted: **11/01/2020**

Ah the modem, a Technicolor TC4310

Don’t enable multiple DHCP servers.

I just opened the ata web interface to see if that option was set "on". The interface was slow to open, I then clicked on basic settings, the ata froze right there. I had to reboot it. The phone line was working 30 seconds before I verified it. (I always verify before coming on that forum)

I found no multiple DHCP option ?

Posted: **11/01/2020**

Grandstream HT-812 isn’t just an ATA. It also contains a router. Don’t use HT-812 as a router.

1)In HT-812, navigate to basic tab—> NAT/DHCP Server Information & Configuration.
Select “Bridge”. Click “Apply”.

Both RT-AC3100 and HT-812, because they are routers, have DHCP server options.
Only use RT-AC3100 for a router. Only use RT-AC3100 for DHCP server.
DHCP servers are what issue IP addresses to devices on your network (ATA, PC).

2.
a) Login to your ATA.
b) Navigate to Basic Settings-->IP Address.
c) Select "dynamically assigned via DHCP".
That means your ATA should be assigned a LAN IP address by RT-AC3100.

d) click "apply"

3. Only connect ATA to RT-AC3100. Do NOT connect ATA to Technicolor modem.

4. Only attach Technicolor modem to RT-AC3100.

5. Only connect PC to RT-AC3100.

7. Reboot RT-AC3100. Wait for it to be completely up and running.

8. Reboot ATA.

If your ATA stops responding, I would try using different cables to rule out a defective one, check for bent or broken pins in the ports on your ATA, and contact Grandstream.

Posted: **11/02/2020**

edit : I edited the end so read until the end before writing !

1)In HT-812, navigate to basic tab—> NAT/DHCP Server Information & Configuration.
Select “Bridge”. Click “Apply”

I don't have these options listed...

2.
a) Login to your ATA.
b) Navigate to Basic Settings-->IP Address.
c) Select "dynamically assigned via DHCP".
That means your ATA should be assigned a LAN IP address by RT-AC3100.

d) click "apply"

It was already done

3. Only connect ATA to RT-AC3100. Do NOT connect ATA to Technicolor modem.

Done of course

4. Only attach Technicolor modem to RT-AC3100.

Done of course

5. Only connect PC to RT-AC3100.

Done of course

7. Reboot RT-AC3100. Wait for it to be completely up and running.

You erased the number 6 ? Number 7 done

8. Reboot ATA.

I waited the number 7 to be done, then I did it.

If your ATA stops responding, I would try using different cables to rule out a defective one, check for bent or broken pins in the ports on your ATA, and contact Grandstream.

Which one ? Only the one from the ata to the router ? My computer and my router work fine so if I have a cable problem, I guess this is coming only from that one ? But if a cable problem, why would I be able to speak to someone finely ?

Could the port 1 be broken and not the port 2 ?

By the way, I had 2 clients there in the past, I think it was 2 clients from the ATA, now it shows 0... https://imgur.com/a/sZysXiw

Edit : ok I wrote all this in advance but I just had problems doing it. I started by rebooting the router. After the reboot I waited a couple min and it was unable to find the Internet with the modem. I had access to the ata web interface and I have been able to reboot the ata but the router did not came back. I closed my computer, unhooked the electricity wires of the 3, plugged back the modem, once ready, I plugged the router, once ready I plugged the ata, once ready I booted my computer. Now, the router woke up and found 2 clients (as it is supposed to be but in less than 24-48 hours the ata will probably fail again). https://imgur.com/a/bVHvsR5

The QoS interface woke up too : https://imgur.com/a/hOapl5m (I dragged the highest priority (red) on the ata and the default (grey) on the computer).

If you are curious : on my router the lan 2 is used by my old computer I never use

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Re: Questions for completing my Grandstream GS-HT802 setting

Re: Questions for completing my Grandstream GS-HT802 setting

Re: Questions for completing my Grandstream GS-HT802 setting