destrock wrote:It stopped working again, I just switched back the option from WAN to LAN
destrock wrote:ok guys I finally plugged the Asus RT-AC3100 router.
Do I enable the NAT ?
Someone here talked about the ALG, do I have to change an option ?
At the bottom, is this how we add a static ip address ?
I made a QOS option
RMerlin wrote:
Quick addendum, as I lack the time to maintain the original post:
In newer routers, if you experience wireless stability issues then it's recommended that you disable the following options:
MU-MIMO (some hardware revisions have non-functional/unreliable implementations)
Airtime Fairness (causes connectivity issues for various devices, including wireless printers)
Universal Beamforming (non-standard, might cause compatibility issues with some clients)
RMerlin wrote:
General tips (applies to both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz)
- Make sure your computer's wireless driver is up-to-date. Check with the manufacturer's website, as Windows Update does not always carry the latest version (in fact, it rarely does). I've personally seen old Atheros drivers that would refuse to connect to any modern router, but worked fine with some older routers.
- Use a tool such as InSSIDer (Windows) or Wifi Analyzer (Android) to determine which channel is the least busy, then set your router to that channel. Keep in mind that a 2.4 GHz wifi channel will interfere with both neighbouring channels. So if you set it to channel 3, it can be affected by anything also using channel 2 and 4. If your neighbour is on channel 1, then he will also interfere with channel 2. That's why it's usually best to stick with channel 1, 6 or 11, as anything between these will most likely interfere with two other used channels.
- Try deleting the wireless profile from your device, and reconnecting as if it was a new connection. The device tend to save more technical details than just the SSID and encryption, so sometimes that information can be out of sync with what the router is using.
- If you had just upgraded the router firmware, try resetting your router back to factory defaults, and reconfigure it manually. Do NOT load a backup of your saved settings, as this will make the whole procedure pointless - you will just end up reloading the exact same incorrect settings you want to get rid of.
- Router (and antennas) positioning can be important. Picture an imaginary direct line of sight between the router and the client device, and observe what obstacles it has to go through. Each obstacle can affect the radio signal.
Going through a wall at a 45 degrees angle will also be worse than at a 90 degrees angle, as it means more surface for the signal to travel through.
- Increasing the output power rarely helps, unless you were also able to increase the output power of your client devices. If you really need better coverage, upgrade your antennas. And actually cranking the output power too high can cause more issues than anything if you reach a point where the signal gets distorted by the emitter.
- A 300 Mbps link does not translate in 300 Mbps speed. That's the link speed itself. After that, you have to take into account the encryption, other devices sharing the same channel, retransmission of lost/corrupted packets, etc... Anything around half the link speed is considered good.
- The link speed can also vary based on power management. It's not unusual for the link speed to drop to a lower value, then rise back up as you are actively transferring data. If evaluating performance, do not look at the link speed alone - do an actual transfer and measure the throughput. Timed file copy or an online speed test with a known good test server are good ways to do so.
- Sometimes, some wireless adapters just won't like your router. That can happen with older laptop wireless interfaces, or some specific vendors. If it's practical, consider possibly using a different wireless adapter (USB-based, for example). A 300 Mbps adapter is fairly inexpensive these days - cheaper than switching to a different router (for example, switching to a Ralink-based router instead of a Broadcom-based one).
Issues specific to 2.4 GHz:
The 2.4 GHz band is VERY crowded. You can get interference from a wide variety of devices:
Microwave ovens
Baby monitors
Old cordless phones
Bluetooth devices
All your neighbour's routers
Due to this, you should set channel width to 20 MHz on that band. A 40 MHz connection would require you to overlap no less than 5 channels. Highly unlikely you will get a reliable 40 MHz connection in any urban area with so many channels overlapping. Yes, it will cut your maximum performance in half, but if you want a STABLE connection on the 2.4 GHz band, there is little you can do about this. Otherwise, the 5 GHz band is your only solution.
You can increase SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in your ATA from 120 seconds to 185 seconds in your ATA without hurting anything, but UDP Unreplied Timeout in your router (which you cannot change) is likely greater than SIP OPTIONS Keep Alive Interval in your ATA, which you cannot safely change.
destrock wrote:There is no mac address so this is useless to change the options
I modified my QoS options. I took the time to read carefully and voip was in the "work-from-home" category. This is now automatic as showed priority. https://imgur.com/a/Za9LflD
1. Is this fine ? https://imgur.com/a/3YPWhfM
I have no idea where these options are hidden in the router... This is the only udp option I found : https://imgur.com/a/RX7X0uv The SIP : https://imgur.com/a/hWbog0f
This is written default is 20, can't we use 20 with free phone line ?
I told you not to use only that. I told you to use Bandwidth Monitor as well
DP Unreplied Timeout (in your router) < NAT Keep-alive Interval (in your ATA; for Obihai ATAs this is X_KeepAliveExpires; for Grandstream, the setting is SIP OPTIONS Keep Alive Interval) < UDP Assured Timeout (in your router) < SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time (or RegisterRetryInterval in Obihai ATAs)
< means less than
18 < 20 < 180 < 185 (I use this because I have some smart home devices that seem to require a longer Assured UDP timeout)
or
18 unreplied UDP timeout in router < 20 SIP OPTIONS Keep Alive Interval in ATA < change Assured UDP timeout in router to 118 seconds < change SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in ATA to 120 seconds
change SIP Registration Failure Retry Wait Time in ATA to 120 seconds
destrock wrote:Oh, I was unable to access my ATA settings, so something was wrong
This is only an option for helping you find the speed of your Internet connection.
I have no "<" options...
You ask me to make it 180
destrock wrote:I have nothing to drag there...
Also, if your ATA is constantly losing connection, you might want to try a different ethernet cable. The one you're using may be defective.
Check your internet LED on the ATA.
Refer to pages 19 and 20 of your user manual for an explanation of LED patterns: http://www.grandstream.com/sites/defaul ... _guide.pdf.
Similarly, check the LED on your router where the ATA is connected when you can no longer access the ATA.
destrock wrote: With the apps. I installed it, along java 32 bits
destrock wrote:
I opened the grandstream pdf. The option ***01 was probably on DHCP mode. I switched, I think, on the static ip.
Is it normal ?
1. a) What brand and model modem are you using?
destrock wrote:
Asus RT-AC3100 with latest firmware and latest merlin firmware.
destrock wrote:Why the "DHCP vendor class ID: HT8XX" ?
And why not using a static ip on the 192.168.1.226 ?
Don’t enable multiple DHCP servers.
1)In HT-812, navigate to basic tab—> NAT/DHCP Server Information & Configuration.
Select “Bridge”. Click “Apply”
2.
a) Login to your ATA.
b) Navigate to Basic Settings-->IP Address.
c) Select "dynamically assigned via DHCP".
That means your ATA should be assigned a LAN IP address by RT-AC3100.
d) click "apply"
3. Only connect ATA to RT-AC3100. Do NOT connect ATA to Technicolor modem.
4. Only attach Technicolor modem to RT-AC3100.
5. Only connect PC to RT-AC3100.
7. Reboot RT-AC3100. Wait for it to be completely up and running.
8. Reboot ATA.
If your ATA stops responding, I would try using different cables to rule out a defective one, check for bent or broken pins in the ports on your ATA, and contact Grandstream.
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